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Imja Tse (Island Peak) - 6169m.




Island Peak Description:
Imja Tse (Island peak), 6169m. is one of the most popular lesser peaks and scaling the mountain you will need some mountaineering skill.

This trip is the same as the ‘Everest’ treks till your entrance to the Chukkung valley. Either you can take air service from Katmandu to Lukla or drive to Jiri 184 km. Eastward of Katmandu and commence trek to Lukla and then continue up past Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, Dingboche, Imaja Glacier to the Base camp of Imja Tse or Island peak. Three days are set aside for the ascent of Imja Tse and follow the same route back to Katmandu as in the ‘Everest’ trek. If you take one-way flight to Lukla, the whole trip will cover within 23 days and 16 days is enough if both way flights are taken.

This trip offers you not only enchanting views of Mt, Everest (8848m.) Lhotse (8516m) Amadablam (6856m.) and numerous other peaks; draws your attention towards monasteries and traditional Sherpa villages. Such a massive glance of the Himalayan peaks can create in you a pleasant wave of internal felicity.

Fact Box

Elevation

20239 feet / 6069 meters

Location

Everest region of Nepal

Best for the Climbing

September, October, November

Convenient Center(s)

Lukla, Chhukung valley

Nearest Major Airport

Kathmandu (minor: Lukla or Phaplu)

Easiest Summit Route

Basic Snow / Ice Climb

Itinerary type

Lodge / Camping

Accommodations

Fixed / Customized

Trek grade

Strenuous

Total days

20 + 4 = 24 days

Using by Round Trip flight to & from Lukla (20 Days):

Outline itinerary

Day 01: Kathmandu-Lukla (2860m) fly in the morning for 45 minutes then commence & trek to Phakding (2600m) – 4 hours
After a very early start and an early take off from Kathmandu Domestic Airport, a 45-minute flight is all it takes to propel into the Everest region of Nepal. The landings at Lukla (2800m) is spectacular and on arrival you will be greeted by trekking crew who organize the luggage and hustle you off for tea. After a leisurely lunch you will start the trek in earnest, setting off for a gentle walk to Phakding (2800m), a further 3 hours to the north. The trail leads through Lukla, past hotels, shops and airline offices to the edge of the Lukla plateau where the trail drops to meet the intersection of the Jiri trail at Chablung. From here the trail follows the Dudh Kosi north through the village of Ghat and then finally to Phakding where you should spend the night.

Day 02: Phakding - Naamche Bazar (3446m) - 6½ hours
From Phakding the trail continues north up the Dudh Kosi Valley, staying 100m above the river on it's West Bank. The trail leads to Jorsale (2810m) where you enter the Sagarmatha (Everest) National Park. From here you will continue on an ever-steeping trail to Namche Bazaar (3446m), known simply as Namche. En route you have cross the spectacular suspension bridge high above the confluence of the Bhote Kosi and the Dudh Kosi, and shortly after glimpse first view of Everest, way off to the northeast. The trail to Namche is steep and long, but eventually you will reach the remarkable Sherpa capital perched high on the hillside and dominated to the east by the immense bulk of Kwangde (6187m).

Day 03: Namche Bazar, on day rest for acclimatization
Acclimatization is important before trekking higher, and this is a scheduled stop, which will allow you to gradually become used to the effects of altitude - the lower pressure and the thinner air. You can spend the day by taking a side trip to Thami or Khumjung, by visiting the National Park Visitor Center on the hill above Namche or by simply resting and browsing in the shops in the town. Namche is a fascinating place simply to 'hang out' and take in the culture of the mountains, from the trading of visiting Tibetans to the stories of departing mountaineers.

Day 04: Namche Bazar – Tengboche (3867m) - 6½ hours
From Namche you have to trek northeast on a direct line to Everest, starting up the hill to the Visitor Center and continuing on a reasonably flat easy trail high above the Dudh Kosi. Ahead of you can see one of the most beautiful mountains in the Khumbu - Ama Dablam (6856m), as well as Everest still far off in the distance. At Sanasa you should branch off the trail and head up the hill to the small settlement of Phunki where you will stop for lunch. From here it is a steady descent to the Tengboche. This is a beautiful settlement where you can see the famous Tibetan Monastery. This is the place where you have to spend overnight.

Day 05: Tengboche – Dingboche (4343m) – 6 hours
Day 06: Dingboche-Lobuche (4930m) - 5½ hours
Day 07: Lobuche-Gorakshep (3200m) – 4 hours
Day 08: Gorakhshep-Kalapattar (5545m) or Everest Base camp - Lobuche, 6 hours
Day 09-10: Lobuche – Chhukung valley
Day 11: Chhukung (acclimatization/rest day)
Day 12: Chhukung - Island Peak base camp

From Chhukung you have to continue in a general easterly direction to the site of your base camp. The trail follows the moraine of the Lhotse glacier to the snout of the Imja glacier where it branches to the east and skirts around the base of Island Peak. You have to make your main camp at a spot known as Pareshaya Gyab at 5087m.

Day 13: Island Peak base camp-high camp
After taking lunch and resting you will continue up to the high camp, a further hour or so up the mountain. The trail is well defined until you reach the area of the high camp at approx. 5500m.

Day 14: High Camp-summit – and decent Chhukung valley
You have to set off early for the summit at about 3.00 am, and scramble up in the dark to the snow-covered glacier above. From here you have to take care your way up the glacier until you should reach a broad snow basin, which leads up to the final section of the climb.

Ahead of you now is the main summit ridge and climb a steep snow and ice slope, using fixed ropes, for approx. 100m to access the ridge. The ridge is a classic and leads quickly to the east up to the main summit at 6189m.

From the summit there are fantastic across to Lhotse to the north, the Amphu Labsta and Mera Peak to the south, and Ama Dablam to the west. After taking in the views you can descend by the same route, abseiling from the ridge, and making your way back carefully to Base Camp.

You have to retrace your steps back down to the Imja valley, firstly to Chhukung where you have to stop for overnight stay

Day 15- 19: Decent from Chhukung valley - Lukla
Day 20: Lukla (fly out)-Katmandu

Rules:
(Effective From August 6, 1981)

1. In exercise of the powers conferred by His Majesty’s Government, Nepal Mountaineering Association has made the following rules to be observed for the climbing of the peaks of Nepal Himalaya Appendix "1".

2. These rules will come into force at once.

3 Definition: - Where applicable definitions for these rules will be the same as those for His Majesty’s Government Mountaineering Expedition Regulations 1979 and its first Amendment 1984.

4. Permission :-

(i) Any person or Mountaineering team desirous of climbing the peak listed in Appendix "1" must receive permission from Nepal Mountaineering Association. Application to climb the peak must be made in the form as prescribed in Appendix "2"

(ii) Permission to climb the peaks will be granted for a period of one month only.

(iii) Permission may be extended, if necessary, for another period of two weeks.

(iv) The period of permission granted relates to time spent for climbing above the base camp. The trek to and from the base camp is not included.

(v) Application for climbing permit may be made at any time by the concerned Mountaineering team. Permit will be granted on a first come first serve basis.

(vi) Each climbing party will be given a permit as prescribed. The right to give permission to another party for climbing the same peak during the same period is reserved by Nepal Mountaineering Association.

(vii) Nepal Mountaineering Association will recommend to Immigration Office of His Majesty’s Government for obtaining trekking permit of the area to the team Members.

5. Payment of Fee : (Effective from January 1,2001)

A climbing fee for 18 NMA Peaks mentioned in Appendix "1" will be charged as follows:

Group Size Rate US$ Additional P/P US$
1-4 Persons 350.00 Only
5-8 Persons 350.00 Plus 40.00 (Per Person)
9-12 Persons 510.00 Plus 25.00 (Per Person)

The permit is valid for the period of one month only. The maximum number of person in a group will be 12 pax.

* * For extending the permission, an additional 25% charge of the total amount of the initial fee will be made for each extra week.

* * The leader or climbing member of the team must collect the permit in person from Nepal Mountaineering Association.

6. Refund :- In the event of cancellation of the permission by NMA or the failure of the expedition to materialize due to some others reason, the fees already paid will not be refunded.

7. Every individual or party granted a climbing permit should be accompanied by a Sirdar/Guide, who must be registered with NMA.

Functions and Duties of the Sirdar/Guide

a) To Assist the climbing party with recruitment of porters and other staff, control of porters, local purchase of food, etc. and to solve any problem that may arise to the best of his ability.

b) To report to Nepal Mountaineering Association in case the party spends more than the prescribed time limit in the Mountain.

c) To ensure that the climbers comply with the terms of their permit.

d) To ensure that the climbers, (trekkers) follow the specified route.

e) To ensure proper disposal of waste materials.

f) To report to NMA any infringement of the climbing rules.

g) To report any serious incidents to the nearest police post. The Sirdar/Guide shall be employed from the day the climbing party begins the trek until the trek is finished.

The Sirdar/Guide will be provided with the following facilities

I) Minimum daily allowance to be paid as per the rules of His Majesty’s Government, Ministry of Tourism, and Civil Aviation.

2) Food and tent accommodation.

3) Climbing equipment and necessary clothing if required to go above base camp.

8. Insurance :- All employees doing above base camp must be insured for personal accident to the value of Rs. 200,000/-

9. Nomination of Representative in Kathmandu :- Each party granted climbing permit will nominate representative in Kathmandu to act as liaison between NMA and the climbing party. The representative should be an organization registered with NMA. The nominated representative will be responsible for making necessary arrangements for the climbing party in case of accidents or any other unforeseen circumstances.

10. Submission of report : - On the conclusion of the climb and on return to Kathmandu the party will submit a report to NMA

11. Power to cancel the permit :- NMA may cancel or withdraw the climbing permit any time with or without showing any particular reason.

12. Non-compliance of the regulation: - Where any trekking party acts in contravention to the climbing permit or indulges in acts of unsocial or outrageous behavior contrary to the customs and culture of the people of Nepal, NMA may recommend to the HMG to take necessary measures in accordance with the article 37 of Mountaineering Regulation 1979.

13. Protection of Environments: - Base camp and other camps will be left perfectly clean at the conclusion of the climb. No foreign materials such as fix ropeas, pitions, etc. shall be left on the mountain. All rubbish and waste material must be burnt or otherwise disposed off.

14. Revision of the Regulation: - Any article of this regulation may be revised or amended by NMA with prior permission of HMG/Nepal.